Alishan Sunrise: How to Catch It

What you are going to see

The viewing point is the Zhushan platform, at 2,451 m. On a clear morning the sun rises over Yushan, or Jade Mountain, which at about 3,952 m is the highest mountain in Taiwan, while cloud settles in the valleys between you and the peaks. Alishan is known for its sunrises, sunsets and sea of clouds. What you see depends on the weather that morning, so treat the platform as a good chance rather than a promise.

The early train and other ways up

The Zhushan line runs early-morning trains from Alishan to the platform, and they are popular for the sunrise over Jade Mountain. The railway office sets the departure from the sunrise time and passenger numbers. The recreation area also runs electric tour buses on a Zhushan line, including a sunrise service, and fares differ by line. Ask at the station which options run on your date, because both the train and the bus follow the weather and the season. The other branch lines, to Zhaoping and Shenmu, run during the day and are separate from the sunrise service.

Getting the ticket

The next day's departure time is announced on the railway's website, at the station, at the recreation area entrance and at the tourist information centre, in the afternoon the day before. Tickets are sold in advance through the online booking system and at several stations, including Alishan. Same-day sales at Alishan start shortly before departure, and purchase limits can apply on holidays and peak periods, so don't leave it to the last minute. The railway's ticket page sets the exact online sales window, so read it for your date.

When the sun comes up

The railway office publishes a sunrise table with a time for every five-day period. The sun rises earliest around June and latest around the new year, and the departure moves with it. That means last year's blog post or a friend's report is a poor guide to your alarm. Check the notice the afternoon before and set the alarm from that. Because Alishan is humid and rainy for much of the year, build in slack: a missed train is a worse start than an early night. The timetable page gives times by five-day period, which shows how the season shifts, but only the daily notice gives the real departure.

Which month gives the best odds

The Chiayi Forest District Office says the best time to see a sea of clouds at Alishan is October to December, at dawn or dusk on clear days with a big temperature difference. Summer is the wetter season. Snow sometimes falls at higher elevations in winter. No month is a guarantee, so if your dates are flexible, a second night on the mountain gives you a second chance. Typhoon damage has cut the railway for years in the past, so in typhoon season keep plans flexible and check the railway office's notices.

Read next: When to Visit Alishan: Cherry Blossom, Clouds and Cold

Dress for the cold

Alishan is high and cool all year, and you will be standing still before dawn. Wear a warm jacket over layers, add a hat and gloves in the cooler months, and choose shoes with grip for damp steps and paths. Put rain gear in the bag in any season. The main railway station is at 2,216 m and the Zhushan platform is higher, so the air there is colder than in the town below. Put the warm layer on before you leave your room: the wait begins in the dark, and standing still is what makes you cold. Nothing here is a reason to skip the sunrise, only to pack for it. If rain is forecast, ask at the station before you queue.

Why the day tour does not include it

The booked day trip leaves from Taichung, Kaohsiung or Chiayi and runs 9.5 to 11 hours, built around forest walks, local culture and free time. Its description does not mention the sunrise train. If dawn is your goal, book a night on the mountain and buy the train ticket through the railway office instead. A sensible plan is sunrise first, forest walks after. If you have only one day, the tour is a good way to see the forest, and our getting-there guide compares the options.

Read next: How to Get to Alishan: Tour or Go Alone

After the sun is up

The forest is the other half of the visit. The recreation area has the Sister Ponds, the Giant Tree walks and the Xianglin Sacred Tree, which is about 45 m tall and roughly 2,300 years old. It replaced an older Sacred Tree, reported to be over 3,000 years old, that was removed in the late 1990s. If cloud hides the sunrise, these walks are what makes the early start worthwhile. The area is open to visitors at all hours, and an entry fee applies. Shouzhen Temple and the century-old Ciyun Temple are also inside it.

The name and the people

Alishan takes its name from a word in the Tsou language, Jarissang. The Tsou are an Indigenous people of central southern Taiwan who have traditionally lived in the Alishan area, and Tsou communities in the scenic area include Dabang, Shanmei and Chashan. The Tsou Cultural Park is also in the area. The mountain was settled long before the logging railway arrived, and the sunrise platform is only the most visited part of a much larger landscape.

Children, access and language

Children under 3 enter the recreation area free. The morning means an early start and a cold wait on an exposed platform, which suits older children better than toddlers. The railway's booking site is available in English, so you can reserve without Chinese. If anyone in your group has limited mobility, ask at the Alishan station office before the night you plan to go, and note that a day in the forest involves steps and paths.

Who this isn't for

If you have one day and are coming from a city, a day trip cannot give you the sunrise. If you dislike cold and early alarms, the forest in daylight is the better half of Alishan. And if you need a guaranteed view, don't build a trip around it: fog can hide the sun and the clouds, and no ticket changes that.